The syrup has been made, tasted and approved! Unfortunately the maker (me) decided it isn’t worth the trouble. After nine hours of cooking eight gallons of sap down I wound up with two pints of syrup. While it was a fun project it isn’t likely to occur again. Maybe the sugar beets should be looked into…
As part of our goal to further self sufficiency I have been wanting to be able to create some source of sugar. Either granular sugar from beets, honey, or maple syrup. Out of all the choices I have considered maple syrup seems the most sustainable. Several reasons made me draw this conclusion. First we already have around twelve trees large enough to be tapped. Second there is absolutely no monetary investment needed, we literally own all needed supplies already. Third the crop is perennial, native, disease, and drought tolerant. Finally harvest occurs during a slow time of year. The downside is it takes a lot of sap (40 gallons of sap makes 1 gallon of syrup), a lot of wood heat, and a lot of time to make syrup.
It may seem odd but beets would probably be my second choice because I have such a knack for growing beets and sugar beets are allegedly easier to grow than table beets. The big downside to beets is the processing is complicated and little information on home scale processing is available. Also seed saving from a biennial crop like beets is tricky and questionable. Bees of course are an option but sound like a lot of work and the regular hive replacement that I have read and heard is necessary seems anything but sustainable.
So I tapped a few trees. Anything in the Maple family can be tapped and turned into maple syrup. This includes Box Elders which not everyone realizes are maples. This is important here in Illinois because in certain soils Box Elders may be your most plentiful tree. While tapping any maple tree is possible Sugar Maples are preferred for higher sugar content and greater sap flow. For the sake of just getting started and experimentation I only tapped three trees. Our one and only Sugar Maple, a Silver Maple, and a Box Elder are the trees I tapped.

For taps I made some out of wood by drilling a 1/4 inch hole through the center of a roughly three inch long by one and one half inch diameter piece of branch. I then sanded one end to a taper and cut the other into a spout shape. I also made some taps out of 3/8 inch PVC supply lines intended for bathroom sinks I had left over from projects. I cut the PVC to about three inches long and slightly tapered one end with sand paper. Both taps or spiles snugly fit into a 3/8 inch hole I drilled in the tree.
I then used gallon jugs to catch the sap by cutting a small hole in the side for the tap and hung them on a galanized nail. Both the taps and nails will be removed when I am done collecting sap.

I used any gallon jugs available. Vinegar jugs are particularly sturdy and the lid stays connected which is a bonus.
So far I have collected a little over a gallon of sap and plan to do a test run of syrup making tomorrow. It should yield slightly less than a cup of syrup. Wish me luck!
This past fall while the utility company was doing some of its annual tree mutilating I snagged a bunch two huge loads of their chips. The interesting part is that I threw all common gardening knowledge to the side and immediately started spreading them on my gardens and working them lightly into the soil.
Now I know many of you have heard before that you shouldn’t do this because it pulls nitrogen out of the soil. What no one ever tells or most likely doesn’t know is that this nitrogen loss is only temporary while the chips are initially being broken down. In fact through a lot of reading on the subject I discovered when applied in the fall the wood chips have released the tied up nitrogen and often more has been added by spring. The biggest benefit is very long term organic matter in your soil and greatly increased microbial activity. This of course leads to better water retention, more worms, higher yields, disease resistance, etc.
If you are doing this by the book you would only use Ramial Wood. Ramial wood is ideally branches from deciduous trees, with a minimum of leaves, still green, and less than three inches in diameter. If you have ever watched the tree trimmers work a majority of what they cut falls into this category except you almost always get the leaves. If you really want to know the details of ramial wood check out this link at
dirtdoctor.com
I only applied the chips to two gardens and I mulched my blackberries and strawberries with it. I still have a big pile composting that will be just used for mulch wherever it is needed this coming summer. The mulching capabilities alone make this an invaluable resource. I will be requesting more wood chips this summer.



First Day at the Market
Recent Comments
Nathan on Syrup Update
It may just be my lack of knowledge...Annie Kelley on Syrup Update
Any particular reason you're not do...Nathan on Syrup Update
You must have a have a setup better...Claire on Syrup Update
Our family taps 3 trees each year i...David on Tapping the Sugar Bush
I give you so much credit for tryin...Annie Kelley on Ramial Wood – A Soil Amendment
Thanks Nathan, I will. I didn't "g...Nathan on Ramial Wood – A Soil Amendment
Annie, From my research I don't k...Annie Kelley on Ramial Wood – A Soil Amendment
Hey nathan-- Been following yo...Nathan on Ramial Wood – A Soil Amendment
The link will now take you to the a...Chaosgarten on Ramial Wood – A Soil Amendment
Found a translation on dirtdoctor.c...